What Is Raw Silk?
Raw silk refers to silk that retains some or all of its natural sericin—the gummy protein coating secreted by the silkworm. This gives the fabric a slightly stiff, textured hand compared to fully degummed ("washed") silk. In practice, however, the term "raw silk" is used loosely in the textile trade and can mean different things depending on the seller or region.
A Note on Naming
You may encounter the same or very similar fabrics sold under several names:
- Raw silk—often used for any undegummed or partially degummed silk cloth
- Dupion / Dupioni—a crisp, slubby silk woven from two cocoons; frequently sold as "raw silk" because of its rough texture
- Noil silk (silk noil)—spun from short waste fibers; has a matte, nubby surface and is often the most affordable option called "raw silk"
- Tussar (Tussah) silk – from wild silkworms; coarser, tan-to-golden in color, with a distinctive earthy texture
Naming varies by supplier, country of origin, and even marketing preference. When in doubt, request a fabric swatch and ask the seller exactly which weave or fiber type they mean.
Texture and Hand
Raw silk fabrics tend to feel:
- Crisper and stiffer than degummed silk—the sericin adds body
- Slightly rough or nubby, especially dupion, which has visible slubs (irregular thickened yarns) woven in
- Less lustrous than charmeuse or habotai, though they still catch light beautifully at an angle
Run the fabric between your fingers. A well-made dupion should feel firm but not scratchy. Noil will feel softer and more cotton-like. Tussar has a drier, more rustic drape.
Handling Before You Sew
A few practical habits will save you time:
- Test a scrap before cutting. Follow the supplier’s care instructions rather than automatically washing or steaming. Treat a small off-cut using the intended cleaning and pressing method, let it dry completely, then check for shrinkage, colour bleeding, water marks, and changes in texture or drape. Only pre-treat the full piece if the test is satisfactory; moisture and heat can alter the finish.
- Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Fraying is common. Cut cleanly and serge or zigzag raw edges immediately.
- Test seam allowance width. Slubby weaves can be prone to seam slippage. A wider allowance (1.5 cm minimum) adds security.
- Press with a pressing cloth. Direct iron contact can flatten slubs and leave shine marks.
Washing
Care depends on the specific fabric, but these are good general guidelines:
- Hand-wash in cool water with a gentle, pH-neutral detergent. Avoid anything enzyme-based, which breaks down protein fibers.
- Do not wring or twist. Gently squeeze out excess water and roll the fabric in a clean towel.
- Machine washing on a delicate cycle inside a mesh laundry bag can work for noil silk, but test on a swatch first.
- Dry flat or hang loosely away from direct sunlight. Sun exposure yellows silk over time.
- Dry-cleaning is the safest option if you are uncertain—particularly for structured garments or large cuts of dupion.
Finishing
Once washed and dried, raw silk often needs a light press to recover its shape:
- Use a steam iron on the silk setting (low-medium heat).
- Always press on the wrong side or through a damp pressing cloth.
- Dupion looks best with a crisp press; noil tolerates a more relaxed finish.
Ready to Explore Our Raw Silk Range?
Browse our Raw Silk Fabrics collection for swatches, weights, and color options—or get in touch if you have questions before ordering.